What Leather Do we use.
January 3, 2026 – William Sproul
Why We Only Use Wickett and Craig Veg Tanned Leather
Choosing the right leather isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s about the soul of the product. If you’ve ever held a piece of cheap, mass-produced leather, you know the feeling—it’s plastic-y, it smells like chemicals, and it starts to peel after a few months.
When I started my journey in leathercraft, I made a commitment to quality that wouldn't compromise. That path led me directly to Wickett & Craig. Founded in 1867, they are one of the last remaining specialty vegetable tanneries in the United States.
Here is why I use Wickett & Craig vegetable-tanned leather exclusively for my goods, and why it matters for you.
1. The Heritage of American Craftsmanship
Wickett & Craig isn't just a supplier; they are a piece of history. Based in Curwensville, Pennsylvania, they’ve been refining their tanning process for over 150 years. In an era where most leather is "chrome-tanned" in massive overseas factories using heavy chemicals and finishing in just 24 hours, Wickett & Craig does things the "slow way."
They use a traditional labor-intensive process that takes approximately six weeks to complete. This isn't just nostalgia—this patience results in a fiber density and durability that modern methods simply cannot replicate. When I buy a side of their English Bridle or Traditional Harness leather, I know I’m working with a material that has been cared for by generations of expertise.
2. The Magic of Vegetable Tanning
Most of the leather you see in department stores is chrome-tanned. It’s fast and cheap, but it’s essentially "dead" leather. It won’t change much over time, and once it’s scratched, it’s ruined.
Vegetable tanning (or "veg-tan") uses natural tannins found in organic materials like tree bark (specifically mimosa and quebracho). This process is:
-
Environmentally Conscious: Because it relies on natural extracts rather than harsh chromium sulfates, it’s much safer for the environment and the workers.
-
Hypoallergenic: It’s better for your skin, especially for items like watch straps or wallets that you handle daily.
-
Character-Driven: Veg-tan leather is "active." It reacts to the oils in your skin, the sunlight, and the way you handle it.
3. The World-Famous Patina
This is the number one reason people fall in love with my goods. A Wickett & Craig wallet or belt doesn’t just "age"—it evolves.
Because the leather is "hot-stuffed" with a proprietary blend of waxes and oils, it has an incredible depth of color. Over time, as you use the item, it develops a patina. This is a rich, honeyed sheen that darkens and smoothens with age. Your wallet will look better three years from now than it did the day you bought it. It becomes a record of your life—every scratch and mark tells a story.
4. Unmatched Durability and "Hand"
In the leather world, we talk about the "hand" of the leather—basically, how it feels. Wickett & Craig leather has a firm, substantial feel that exudes quality.
-
English Bridle: Known for its smooth, waxy finish and beautiful "flesh" side (the back), it’s incredibly strong and weather-resistant.
-
Traditional Harness: This leather is deeply saturated with oils. It has a "pull-up" effect, meaning when you fold it, the oils shift and create beautiful highlights.
When I build a belt out of 10-12oz Wickett & Craig skirting, I’m not just making a fashion accessory. I’m making a tool that will likely outlive the person wearing it. It won’t stretch out or crack like the "genuine leather" (which is often just glued-together scraps) you find in big-box stores.
5. Consistency You Can Trust
As a maker, my reputation is on the line with every stitch. I choose Wickett & Craig because their grading is impeccable. Their hides are sourced from North American cattle, and the quality control is world-class. When I receive a shipment, I know the thickness will be uniform and the dye will be deep and consistent. This allows me to focus on my craft—the cutting, the burnishing, and the stitching—knowing the foundation is solid.

0 comments